For a long time I have been wanting to visit Garden Island (HMAS Stirling) which is just off Rockingham, South of Perth. It’s a working naval base and as such access is restricted. Like Rottnest Island there is a remnant wallaby population surviving on the introduced predator-free island, with a large population of Tammar wallaby (Notamacropus eugenii). They can be found on the mainland but are quite timid and not often seen. I think both being a island and the restricted access due to naval operations has allowed fauna to flourish and much of the vegetation is as it was Pre-European settlement.
My friend Russell offered to arrange a trip as a birthday gift – asking a mutual friend Dan who is in the navy to facilitate access. They both gladly gave up a Saturday evening. Public access to the island is usually only available during daylight hours via boat – so this was a special treat. Russ and I met Dan just at the start of the causeway as you can drive onto the island. We went through the security checks and drove further into the island into some of the navy residential areas. Just as we were about to park we saw our first Tammar. I was very excited and then we just kept seeing them!
The wallabies were everywhere. They are taller than a Quokka but smaller than a kangaroo and beautifully marked. They seem quite unfazed by human presence but would dash away into thick vegetation if you go too close.
Tammar wallaby @ Garden Island
I really enjoyed photographing them – they had quite varied colouration – possibly age and gender related or perhaps just natural variation.
We saw so many wallabies and I took a lot of photos – it was pretty hard which ones to choose so there is a fair amount posted here!
Tammar wallaby @ Garden Island
I captured this short video as it allowed me to get very close.
As we completed our loop we came onto a grassed area with thick bordering vegetation and we saw more wallabies than ever.
This video (sorry its a little shaky) gives an idea of how many there are in some locations and also how they blend into the vegetation.
Tammar wallabies @ Garden Island
As we completed the loop more were seen in amongst paths and car parks.
Our last couple were sitting in the car park for some reason near a motorbike!
It was a great evening with many, many Tammars seen. It’s wonderful to know there is a good sized population of this wonderful macropod on a protected island which is much less known than its famous Quokka cousin.
Seeing Tammar Wallabies on the mainland
While Garden Island is the easiest place to see Tammars, small populations survive in the WA wheatbelt and southwest. Tutanning Nature Reserve, about 120km southeast of Perth, is the best mainland location I’ve found — though sightings require a nocturnal visit and a fair amount of patience. I’ve seen them there twice:
- Tutanning Nature Reserve — Phascogale, Tammars, Bats & Frogs (2018)
- Tutanning Nature Reserve with the WA Nats (2020)
Frequently Asked Questions
Can the public visit Garden Island to see the Tammar wallabies?
Public access to Garden Island (Meeandip) is by private boat only, to designated coastal areas during daylight hours. The island is otherwise HMAS Stirling, a restricted naval base, and cannot be visited without military authorisation. With AUKUS submarine operations now expanding at the base, general access is unlikely to become easier any time soon. For official access information see the Australian Department of Defence — HMAS Stirling.
Are there Tammar wallabies on the mainland near Perth?
Yes — small populations survive in reserves across the wheatbelt and southwest, though mainland animals are far more timid and almost entirely nocturnal compared to the habituated island population. Tutanning Nature Reserve is the most reliable spot I’ve found near Perth.
What do Tammar wallabies look like?
Tammars are a medium-sized wallaby — larger than a Quokka but much smaller than a Western Grey Kangaroo. They have greyish-brown fur with rufous (reddish) tones on the flanks and limbs, a pale cheek stripe, and a relatively long tail. On Garden Island the colour variation between individuals is quite striking — possibly age, sex or natural variation.
Are Tammar wallabies endangered?
Not nationally, but mainland WA populations have declined significantly due to fox and cat predation and habitat clearing. Island populations like Garden Island are doing well precisely because they are predator-free — which is why the contrast between relaxed island animals and skittish mainland ones is so stark.
What is the best time to visit Garden Island for wallabies?
The wallabies are active throughout the day and well into the night. Evening visits when the naval residential areas quieten down tend to produce the most sightings, but honestly they were everywhere at all hours during our visit.
Is Garden Island the same as Rottnest Island?
No — they’re separate islands. Rottnest (Wadjemup) is famous for Quokkas and sits off Fremantle. Garden Island (Meeandip) is off Rockingham, further south, and is home to Tammar wallabies. Both owe their thriving wildlife populations to being predator-free islands.
Like this photo? It’s available as a print
This shot of a Tammar wallaby on Garden Island is available to order as a print — paper, canvas, metal, acrylic or framed, shipped anywhere in the world. Prints from US $2.
Have you visited Garden Island or spotted Tammars on the mainland? Leave a comment below — always keen to hear about sightings.
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